General

The gap between the strings and the frets is referred to as ‘the action’. Note that this is not the distance between the strings and fret board. Also, in determining the action, the gauge of the strings is not relevant. Essentially, it is the clear gap between the strings and the frets which is generally measured at the 12th fret for the e-1 and E-6 strings.

The action plays a role as to the playability of the guitar, but also influences playing dynamics. For this reason, generally applicable parameters are not mandatory – one size does not fit all; action is a personal choice.

At Lakewood we endeavor to set up our guitars so as to suit the preferences of the majority of Players.

Measuring the action

Important: before altering the action, check the neck with regard to the truss rod which may require adjustment.
See more on this at How to adjust the truss rod?

For measurement of the action, you will need a short ruler - but a 20 and 50 Eurocent coin will do the trick too!

As mentioned, the action is measured as the clear gap between string and fret at the 12th fret. For average playing dynamics and light gauge strings (.012-.053 inch) the generally accepted values are 2,0mm for the e-1 string und 2,5mm for the E-6 string. These gaps can either be determined by way of a ruler

or very simply by means of suitable coins.

For the e-1 and an action of 2,0mm the 20 Eurocent coin is perfect and for the E-6 string with an action of 2,5mm, the 50 Eurocent coin does the job. If you can just slide the relevant coin into the gap, you will have achieved a 2,0 – 2,5mm action.

Adjusting the Action

Should you want a lower or higher action, this will be subject to certain limits.
The strings require room for unimpeded oscillation and this will restrict your desire for a very low action. This may be depicted graphically as follows:

So, to adjust the action, the saddle height will need to be altered. This is achieved by adding to or subtracting from the bottom of the saddle insert. This difference is calculated at twice the value to be added to or subtracted from the gap at the 12th fret.
Adding to the saddle height can be achieved by means of a suitable shim to be placed on the pickup element.
Lowering the saddle is done by carefully removing material from the bottom of the saddle insert. In doing so, great care must be taken to retain the absolute evenness of the bottom surface. Failure to do so will impact on the acoustic qualities of the guitar and/or its performance via the pickup. Take the advice of a technician if you are unsure about this procedure.

Should a materially higher action be required, this may impact the bridge, depending on type and geometry. The saddle insert should not protrude by more than 6mm over the surface of the bridge. A higher saddle insert would result in too acute an angle for the strings.

General

Please rest assured that a ‘rattle-free’ guitar has not yet been built and that we may expect the rules of physics to apply into the future.
Rattle occurs when vibrating strings make contact with the frets. The vibrations interfere with the string oscillation and lead to an impure sound. The energy in the string is partially absorbed by the rattle which leads to a quicker decay of the tone.

Causes of rattle (fret-buzz)

Rattling of strings may be due to a number of causes. Imprecise playing technique in either left or right hand often leads to string rattle. The fretting of a string (finger placement vis-à-vis the fret) may cause unwelcome vibrations.

On over-powerful strum with the right hand or the equivalent of a flamenco-like Apoyando can drive the vibrating string too close to the fret board.

These aspects of technique should be critically evaluated as they can either themselves or in conjunction with characteristics of the guitar be lead to string rattle.

Naturally, there are other causes of string rattle:

1. Worn or faulty strings are the most common cause
2. A string action unsuited to the guitarist’s playing style (see the section How can I measure and adjust the action of my guitar?)
3. Uneven fret height (see the section on The frets are uneven and worn)
4. Incorrect adjustment of the truss rod (see the section on How do I adjust the truss rod?)
5. Excessive notch depth of the nut (see the section on How the nut can be checked)

Subjective perception

What may seem unacceptable string rattle to one player might not bother another and even be appealing to a third player who chooses this as his preferred musical ‘sound’. While we don’t intend to persuade any player to accept a rattling guitar it might be good to put one’s own perception into perspective. Strictly speaking, no guitar is rattle-free; indeed you can express and emphasise these sounds. To focus on these tones unduly might lead to an eventual loss of pleasure in the music.
Technical flaws must clearly be eliminated but, realistically, only in sync with improvement of the player’s technique.